Ama Dablam

 

Expedition Overview

Climber Experience

While the route requires knowledge of rope work and technical climbing techniques, it is suitable for climbers with previous technical ice and snow experience on much smaller objectives. Exposure to heights above 6,000m would be ideal, but not mandatory for members who can display previous solid technical ability on mixed ground.

Expedition style

The style of our expedition will provide for our lead guides to fix and maintain the route for the climbing party, with opportunities available for members to assist in the route fixing.

Our expedition will start with an extraordinary trek from Lukla to Ama Dablam BC with three nights in Namche along the way to ensure and excellent acclimatization. We also are including in our trip a warm-up climb on Island Peak which will give everyone a chance to get their skills in order on a much less technical peak. Additionally this will enable us to move efficiently from Ama Dablam BC to the high camps and make a summit attempt without unnecessary repetition of carries on the lower slopes of the mountain.

With a world class trek, comfortable base camp arrangement by a clear stream and on a grassy meadow, a great warm-up peak, experienced guides and like-minded teammates this will be a great trip from start to finish!

Route Overview

Ama Dablam 6856M: The South West Ridge Route

The route weaves its way up through an ever changing environment of rock towers, ice humps, snow and ice platforms, and terminates upon a ramp of steepish ice and snow before rounding off to a spectacular summit mound where the views of Everest and a multitude of other peaks abound. It is the outlandish exposure, a mind boggling variation of scenery and topography, and the little hidden discoveries along the way up and across the ridge, that make climbing this route such a tantalizing experience.

 

Base Camp to Camp 1

 The only non-technical portion of the climb. Leave base camp 4600M and head towards the SW ridge via a will worn trail. Climb up scree & possible snow slopes to the large talus field. Do your best to follow the rock cairns through the talus where you will eventually see the site of camp 1 and the start of the fixed lines, the slabs. Helmets on, either climb the low 5th class slabs or jumar up fixed lines to camp 1 5650M. (4-6 hours from base camp)

Camp 1 to Camp 2

Follow the ridge, and likely the fixed lines, for an amazing day in the hills. Classic slabby climbing with a few short steep pitches that can easily be free climbed at about 5.6. Be prepared for insane exposure on both sides of the ridge. The crux of the route is the Yellow Tower located right before camp 2 at about 5965M. Jumar or climb the 5.9 35M near vertical rock pitch, don't look down! Camp 2 is situated about 100 horizontal meters from camp 2 6000M (3-5 hours from camp 1)

Camp 2 to Camp 3

 Be well prepared for this day, both physically and mentally. The exposure is out of this world and the climbing is non stop, in your face from right out of camp 2. Ascent the Grey Tower, usually a moderate mixed climb of M4 or lower. Watch out for climbers above as the rock is very loose. Traverse onto the ice and gain the Mushroom Ridge right before the new site of Camp 3 6350M.

We no longer use the old site of camp 3 and have opted to dig into the ridge for a safe, secure camp. It is also possible to summit from camp 2 for stronger parties. (Highly recommended!) (6-10 hours from C2 to the summit)

Camp 3 to Summit

Climb the final sections of the Mushroom Ridge to the site of the old camp 3. Ascend the 50 degree hard ice and snow slopes around the right side of the Dablam. Take a breather, cross the bergschrund, and follow the left trending ridge 45 degrees line directly to the summit. (3-5 hours from camp 3)

It is advisable to get off of the mountain as quickly as possible. It is common practice to descend from the summit to C3 or C2 and down to base camp the next day. A true classic.

 

 

Note:

Base camp support, helicopter, medical and approach support (with or without permit inclusion) is also available as a separate option for experienced (only) independent teams – please contact us for details.

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