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Cho Oyu

 

At 8201m Cho Oyu is the world’s 6th highest peak and considered one of the best introductions to climbing an 8000m peak.

Cho OyuAltitude: 8,201M/26,906ft Location: Tibet

Dates:

April 10 to May 21,  2013
September 5 to October 14, 2013

Price:

USD$16,490 usd in 2013
BC services only USD$ 11,690 in 2013
note: the TMA has recently increased the permit costs significantly for members and staff and we have had to make a significant increase in our fees to cover this cost.

Note:

Base camp support, helicopter, medical and approach support (with or without permit inclusion) is also available as a separate option for experienced (only) independent teams – please contact us for details.

Inclusions:

All services KTM – KTM
(except lunches and dinners in towns in Nepal)

Positions Open:

12 for each trip

About Cho Oyu

With good weather and a strong support team it has one of the highest summit success ratios of any 8000m peak. With moderate objective hazards and low technical demands it is a great peak to focus on high altitude climbing.

First climbed in 1954 it has seen thousands of ascents since and the normal route is a well traveled route. As the climb runs along the border to Tibet and Nepal it may be climbed from either side but typically is done so from Tibet.

Expedition Overview

Travel to and from the base camp

One of the most exciting parts of this trip will be the wild ride from Kathmandu up through the border towns, along the cliff side”highway” and onto the Tibetan plateau. Narrow gorges, border crossings, precipitous roads and stunning vistas will confront you on this journey and it will be a memorable experience. We will be spend several nights in Nylam as it is our first high sleep and take a day of acclimatizing walks. Then on to Dingri where we will also feel the effects of another altitude jump and enjoy a day of ambling about the town and visiting old Dingri.

FTA and Cho Oyu

On Cho Oyu our members will once again have a larger degree of input than they will find on other commercial expeditions. We will include our members in pre-trip logistics conversations and work together to create the travel, base camp and climbing atmosphere that we all want most. We have worked hard to look at the internal costs of such a venture and have come up with a fee that reflects what we believe we can offer to support a team of 4 or more climbers.

If our team grows beyond this we will be taking a portion of the excess funds and discussing as a team which local organization in Nepal or Tibet we would like to support. In Pakistan we have made significant contributions to the rebuilding and relief efforts in the aftermath of the earthquake and we look forward to taking a similar leading role in supporting the Nepali and Tibetan communities. If you have a particular skill (medical, construction, etc) you can offer to a local project please let us know.

We will max out at approximately 12 members plus guides and sherpas as we have found this to be a great size to promote the close bonds our climbers have developed on our trips. We value the relationships we build on our climbs and many of our members go on to climb with each other again and again. If you are looking for a well organized trip, an enjoyable atmosphere and like-minded fellow climbers we invite you to join us!

Daily Itinerary

Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu. Transfer to Marshyangdi Hotel

Day 2 Free day in Kathmandu to see the city sights and do final shoping

Day 3 drive to.Nylam

Day 4 free day in nylam to acclimatize

Day 5 drive to Dingri

Day 6 free day in Dingri to acclimatize

Day 7 drive to Cho Oyu Chinese Base Camp (CBC)

Day 8 trek to Intermediate BC (IBC)

Day 9 trek to Advanced Base Camp (ABC)

Day 10 to 36 Climb Cho Oyu

Day 37 clean up ABC

Day 38 trek from ABC to CBC and drive to Dingri

Day 39 Drive Nylam to Kathmandu. Stay in Marshyangdi Hotel.

Day 40 day in Kathmandu for sightseeing or spare day fro travel delays.

Day 41 transfer to airport.

 

The Normal Route

 

We will place Camp 1 at approximately 6400m on a broad snow shoulder. Camp 1 is reached in 4-6 hours up a steep scree slope sometimes covered in snow. We may also take the opportunity to place an intermediate camp at 5900m.

Leaving Camp 1, the stunning north west ridge of Cho Oyu is followed to a steeper 50 metre ice wall. The difficulties on this section are concentrated over only 6m and we will climb the fixed ropes. A large and often steamy hot plateau is crossed easily to reach the second ice cliff which in some years is easy snow climbing and other years interesting low angle ice climbing. The views in this section are among the finest of the trip ad the climbing the most varied and interesting on the hill.

Camp 2 is then placed at 7100m. The climb from C1 to C2 can take as little as 4-5 hour once acclimatized but may take as many as 8-10 on the first run up. From Camp 2 to Camp 3 the angle eases considerably and we will place Camp 3 at 7500m. Camp 2 to 3 should take us 4 hours. 

If all goes to schedule we should have a number of days during which to attempt the summit. You will need all your determination for summit day which should take 8-10 hours to reach the top. A magnificent vista awaits all those successful, as you look to the north over the plains of Tibet and China and to the south towards Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Everest, Makalu and the Khumbu valley in Nepal.

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