Spantik is currently deemed as one of, if not the, safest and most straightforward 7,000m ascents in the Himalaya. This incredible peak is also widely described as lying in one of the most beautiful areas in the world.
Altitude: 7027M/ 23, 050ft Location: Pakistan
August 01 – 31, 2013 & 2014
All services Islamabad – Islamabad
12 for each trip
About Mt Spantik
Spantik is currently deemed as one of, if not the, safest and most straightforward 7,000m ascents in the Himalaya. It has gained considerable attention from climbers in recent years due to its accessibility and relative ease of ascent. It provides for a full wilderness climbing experience in true expedition style, in a corner of the Karakorum Himalaya still untouched by modern tourism and western influences.
An objectively safe route leads to a summit dome that provides enormous views across a sea of snow capped peaks. Spantik stands higher than all her neighbors, and on fine days all four 8,000m peaks at the head of the Baltoro Glacier can be readily seen.
About Mt Spantik and FTA
We have guided 4 trips to Spantik and have extensive knowledge of the climb. We have had at least 11 members summit over the years and had a vast majority of our team reach C3 or higher including in 2006 when the team was halted 50m below the top due to danger of cornices.
Previous Experience Needed
This is a superb first time expedition objective, and is a viable alternative to climbers considering an ascent of Aconcagua, Denali, or any number of minimal technical Nepalese 7000m peaks. She is a relatively safe and straightforward mountain, offering the full spectrum of experience one would expect from a Himalayan expedition climb. Ideally members would have some experience in the use of ice axes and crampons, however even a lack of such knowledge should not preclude climbers aspirations for this hill – a thorough technical training course is available to members at no extra cost should they need to hone existing techniques or grasp new ones. Physical fitness is important, as is an ability to work and live under expedition conditions and play an integral role as a member of a team.
Our line follows the South East ridge, which was attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906, the peak was first climbed in 1955 by Karl Kramer’s German Expedition. This route is a long snow and ice ridge climb of moderate angles. There are two sections which normally require the use of fixed ropes, these sections are readied by our HAP’s (high altitude porters) if no previous team has yet fixed them.
HAP’s and Strategy
High altitude porters (HAP’s) will be engaged to carry the group technical gear (fixed ropes, stakes etc) and some of the team equipment (limited to tents, fuel etc). Team members will carry their own personal equipment, and will need to be self sufficient on the mountain, preparing their own camp sites, food, and participating in load carries where necessary. Notwithstanding that members will do no more load carrying than they require to move their personal equipment and ensure their acclimatization. Additionally, we are looking to assess the viability of ascending this peak in ‘capsule style’, where only 2 permanent camps are fixed (C2 & C3), and moving constantly up the peak without surrendering height. This style has worked extremely well for us on other 7000m peaks and may be satisfactory for Spantik given certain factors fall into place.
Team members should be expectant of the fact that strategies and methodology will not and cannot be formulated prior to arrival at the peak, and that group consensus, team fitness, acclimatization, and weather factors will play roles in the determination of how we climb the mountain.
Overall, the route and the campsites are objectively safe, and are not threatened by any real slide or rock fall danger. Given good snow and clement weather, the SE ridge provides very good, if not high, chances of summit success for prepared and focused climbers who are able to adapt to the demands of ‘expedition style’ mountaineering.
Spantik 7027M: The South East Ridge Route
The south east ridge rises 2700m over a lateral distance of 7.6kms. The ridge provides easy angle of mostly less than 30o slopes. In a few sections the ridge steepens to 40 degrees. Wherever necessary these sections will be fixed. The route is an interesting excursion through varied terrain, from rocky outcrops to snow and ice and scree. The upper sections are well defined ridge tops of hard ice culminating in the summit dome.
Base Camp to Camp 1
From base camp, the ascent to Camp 1 follows a moderate slope, at first on grass and gravel then up to a rocky ridge with sections of loose scree. Camp 1 is placed on a rock platform just below the snow line ( 3-5 hrs climbing).
Camp 1 to Camp 2
The climb then follows the undulating ridge on snow to a level patch of snow where we place Camp 2 ( 5 hrs climbing). The terrain is heavily crevassed and roped travel is essential by all members.
Camp 2 to Camp 3
Above this the slope steepens and anywhere up to 500m of fixed rope will be set between camp 2 and camp 3. The first section of 300-400m will be set on an open 35° slope leading to a large snow platform. After a few hundred meters of easier ground, a second section of 150m will be set as the slope steepens to nearly 40°. Just beyond this, Camp 3 will be placed on a wide snow ledge below the summit slopes (5 hrs climbing).
Camp 3 to Summit
The route to the summit from camp 3 is technically quite straightforward but can be a very demanding day physically. A gentle slope rises to a height of 6550m where it steepens to join the SW ridge. This is then followed for 400m at an average angle of 30° until it levels out 100m below the summit. The top of the mountain is a rounded snow dome and 50m of rope may be fixed on the short section leading onto the summit slopes (6-8 hrs ascent/2-3 hrs descent).
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